There’s still somewhere in Italy you can go without the crowds. Really? Yes, and it’s all thanks to a hilltop village in the middle of Umbria’s olive country. Meet Rastrello, a certified B-Corp boutique chic B&B set atop the hilltop village of Panicale. Chances are you’ve never heard of the place—after all, when people say Umbria they automatically blurt out Reschio—but it’s a place that should firmly be on your radar, especially if Italy is your go-to summer break. The sleepy Borgo—home to nearly 6,000 people—has been around for nearly 2,000 years and is one of I Borghi più belli d'Italia ("The most beautiful villages of Italy").
Its provincial village charm, olive groves, and rustic prairies is what attracted owner of Rastrello Christiane Wassmann and her family to the place when they moved in over two decades ago. Eclipsed by a love for its olive grove pastorals, landscape plays a key role in her boutique hotel’s offering. Hills lined with trees and ancient shrubs tumble down to Lake Trasimeno, flecked by a smattering of stone houses and farmland. It's a quintessential quiet town, and a place where the term “slow luxe” really lives up to its newfound fame. Life, as expected, is very slow here, and that is what GM Chiara Verdacchi says accounts for the boutique’s success.
Style-wise, the 14th-century palazzo has been restored with lots of historic soul. Italian design firm Pelizzari Studio worked with local artisans to create the look, best summed as a mish-mash of traditional Umbrian and modern Italian: custom furnishings, travertine marble, wood beams, exposed stone, and ironwork. Contemporary artwork is splashed all over and complements the soft colour palette inspired by the region. The only letdown are the spotlights, which do not flatter the space and distract from the views. The rooms are much the same blend of old meets new. We checked into the new Garden Annex, a mish-mash of a pied-à-terre spread across three floors. I found myself in the attic, the headline space where privacy rules. The showstopper is the balcony that overlooks the lake as well as the borgo’s grand curves. Windows in this suite give perspective, too. One spies the village square where life explodes come dinnertime, and the bathtub overlooks the chimney-lined cottages that swirl their way down the hill. Bed? Ultra comfy and big enough for three.
As for the food, Rastrello’s olive farm existed long before the B&B (the name “rastrello” is a reference to the small rake used to harvest olives), even existed so locality and tradition are very much at the forefront of its menus. Restaurant Cucina & Giardino is a firm highlight and a go-to by locals, too. Chef Nicola Fanfano is a master of flavours, regional ingredients, and a passionate ambassador of the farm-to-table movement. Order his signature dish of onion parmigiana, and if you have room for dessert, the hazelnut crème brûlée is a non-negotiable must (I could have eaten two). The Spaghettata dinners in ode to recipes crafted by Umbrian nonnas and nonnos is well worth the extra pasta carbs, too. Breakfast, sadly, is lacklustre, so more work needs to be done there. Service is exceptional here and deserves a special mention, especially when you consider how poor it is elsewhere in the hospitality space. Everyone here hails no further than 30 minutes away, and while some might be shy, their infectious charm, warmth, and friendliness is refreshing, as it is welcome. Top marks.
Fast Facts
Location: Panicale, Florence
Rating: Five-star
The Vibe: Live like a local in the middle of your Beauty and the Beast-esque provincial life fantasy.
Room Count: 16
Starting Rate: From about 320 USD per night.
Dining: Exquisite. Do not bother going elsewhere and just eat as much as humanly possible come dinner time at Restaurant Cucina & Giardino.
Our favourite thing about the place: It is intimate and charming, and not in a strained way at all. The olive oil tastings are a great education, too. Not just for the novelty, but you will learn what makes an olive oil good and what it should really taste like.
Amenities: Bar, plunge pool, restaurant, wellness space
Closest Airport: Perugia Airport
