Modica is best known for chocolate and churches. A short walk up the hillside from the historic city center sits Casa Talia, an intimate retreat and member of Mr & Mrs Smith, where time slows down and views take your breath away. When Marco Giunta (whose paternal grandmother is Sicilian) and his wife, Viviana Haddad, both architects from Milan, visited UNESCO-listed Modica two decades ago, it was love at first sight.
The duo initially bought some stone ruins to build a small home. With plenty of creative vision and commitment, the project evolved, in part organically and also as a result of conscious effort, into a boutique hospitality venture.
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Over the years, the pair has purchased and meticulously restored more of the surrounding old buildings, expanding the footprint of Casa Talia to include eight charming accommodations, where Sicilian culture (nods to the Arabic, Greek, and Spanish influences), sustainability, and thoughtful design coalesce. The use of natural materials like lime plaster, stone, and terracotta counterbalances the modern touches such as orb lamps and local Ortiga bath products.
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The two-level Talia shows off a traditional bamboo ceiling, ancient black stone floors, and a sliding contemporary closet to make smart use of space under the stairs. Blue tiles, called Azulejos, are the focal point in Mediterraneo. Sciara features a red-and-black ceramic wall and a pitched stone floor. Most rooms have terraces with chairs and tables to sit back and soak in the sweeping vistas. Stone pathways snake through the hills, connecting the structures and terraced gardens.
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The size and location make the property feel like a hidden gem. That’s also due to who it attracts—holiday goers looking for privacy, a relaxed pace, and homespun charm. There’s no rush to go anywhere or do anything in particular. Wandering is encouraged. Even better if you get lost and stumble upon something unexpected, perhaps a uniquely shaped cactus or an old wrought-iron door. While ambling, be sure to check out the water cistern turned lounge and appreciate the pared-back beauty of the reception, which used to be a wine cellar.
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At Casa Talia, days start slowly with a cooked breakfast in the garden (or in a white-washed cave room in the chillier months). Rather than a big buffet or a menu of egg dishes, it’s a simple, delicious spread of whatever is fresh and in season. In early June, that looked like yogurt, housemade granola, pineapple, yellow apples, bread, fruit preserves, butter, bruschetta, and cake baked fresh that morning. Shaded by olive trees, the al-fresco space overlooks the Baroque majesty of Modica. And, of course, there’s no rush to get up. Lingering over a cappuccino is encouraged.
As the morning crawls on and the temperature rises, head upstairs to the pool for swimming and sweeping panoramas (it’s probably the best photo op spot in the city).
When it comes time to leave the cocoon of calm and venture to town, there are plenty of sweet shops and local restaurants within walking distance. Though guests will have the option to dine, drink, and get pampered right on site in the not-so-distant future. A restaurant, bar, and spa are all coming soon.
Top Takeaways
Location: Modica, Sicily, Italy
Rating: Four-Star
The Vibe: A hillside hidden gem overlooking one of Sicily’s most beautiful, sun-baked Baroque cities.
Food + Drink: A home-cooked breakfast is served each morning. The property has plans to open a full-service restaurant and bar later this year.
Amenities: Breakfast; pool; free WiFi; air-conditioning; spa treatments on request; lunch boxes on request; “chef dinners” on request
Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: Starting the day with a homemade breakfast and magnificent views of Modica.
5 Nearby Attractions: Duomo di San Giorgio; Duomo di San Pietro Apostolo; Castello dei Conti; Teatro Garibaldi; Santa Maria di Gesu
Any Personal Neighborhood Recs? Just down the stairs from Casa Talia, Antica Dolceria Bonajuto is perhaps the most famous and historic chocolate artisan in Modica. Fattoria Delle Torri bridges the gap between contemporary and traditional Sicilian gastronomy. The stylish setting and extensive wine list add to the appeal.
Rooms: 8 rooms and suites
Pricing: Rooms start at $150/night
Closest Airport: Vincenzo Bellini Catania Airport (CTA)
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