Stockholmers, as the locals in Sweden’s capital city are called, are on the pulse of what’s edgy and cool when it comes to fashion and design. They also have an eye for excellent cuisine and love going out for great eats and having a fun time.
The city, like any metropolis worth its salt, has no shortage of solid restaurants, but on a recent visit there—my second time in town—I tried a handful that I think shouldn’t be missed.
Three are firmly in place as Stockholm institutions. They’re always packed with locals, lively, and make you feel like an insider who’s plugged into where to go.
Sturehof
It would be a shame to visit here and not dine at Sturehof, a large brasserie in downtown. Established in 1887, it serves seafood-centric Swedish cuisine with French influences and is open from morning until late at night. The restaurant has a close relationship with local farms and uses the very best ingredients. Let me tell you, the dishes show up. Callouts go to the tempura-fried zucchini flowers with ricotta and parmesan, oysters, poached turbot with peas, and fillet of beef tartare. The wine list is extensive, diverse, and impressive.
Wedholms Fish
Wedholms Fish is another classic and a suave seafood eatery in the heart of the city. The dining room is elegant and always full, and the wine list, including the many French varieties, comprises familiar and rarer bottles. But really, the star is the food. My server suggested I try the grilled whole wild sole with either champagne sauce or chimichurri butter- they’re the most popular dishes. I asked for them both on the side, and, yes, I got the hype. Our spread also covered burrata with chili vinaigrette, lobster soup with garden peas, and scallops with tarragon butter, each tastier than the next.
Östermalm’s Saluhall
For lunch, Östermalm’s Saluhall is a must. This expansive food hall has been open since 1888 and is an energetic spot. You can pick from more than half a dozen six-down restaurants: Nybroe serves all manners of smørrebrød—open-faced sandwiches on Danish rye bread, M Seger is for omnivores with its Swedish beef, pork, and veal dishes, and the family-run Lisa Elmqvist has a raw seafood bar that’s not to be missed. The latter is also Michelin-recommended.
Storied restaurants aside, Stockholm has plenty of new, trendy spots with a glamorous crowd to match.
Bistro at Stadshotell
Bistro at Stadshotell, in the hip, hilltop set Södermalm neighborhood, for one, is hotly sought-after. The menu is ever evolving, depending on what ingredients head chef Olle T. Cellton can get his hands on. Recent options include an Italian-leaning veal tartar with parmesan, a distinctly Swedish hake with potatoes and asparagus, and a plate of assorted, warm cookies—an American favorite. Vegans and vegetarians aren’t left out with creative dishes like a hearty polenta with ricotta.
Brasserie Astoria
Brasserie Astoria, formerly a cinema dating to the late 19th century, is the other big talk in town. Also in Södermalm, this is an opulent space that’s a throwback to an old-world era when glamour reigned. Start your meal with a cocktail, maybe another, at one of the several intimate bars throughout the space.
Then, make your way over to the main dining room to experience the simple, yet beautifully executed menu full of international dishes we all know and love. You won’t go wrong with the garlic bread with browned butter and miso, the smoked beef carpaccio with shallot confit, or the truffle pizza with fontina and feta cheeses. For dessert, expect cookies, pralines, and cake presented on a cart, bourbon and vanilla bean ice cream with salted caramel sauce, and crème brûlée drizzled with pecan and maple syrup. Do like us, and order them all.
